-p'^^'' DEC 24 1900 



100 

>py 1 



MRS.flJ.Wu&RFEL§ 

TAILORS 
RIILES 



..AND.^ 



DIAGRAMS 






Copyright, 1900, by Mrs. A. J, Wuerfel. 



k''%/%^%/V%/%'%/%/^^/%^'V%/%/%^^'^^/^^%^'%/%/%^^/%^-%/%/%/%/%/%,1 



MRS. A. J. WUERFEL'S 

...TAILOR'S RULES... 



A.ND 



DIAGRAMS. 



INSTRUMENTS PATENTED JUNE 7th, 1887. 



FOR CUTTING ANY SIZE OR STYLE OF GARMENT FOR LADIES AND CHILDRHN. 



IT IS ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN TO SELL PATTERNS 
MADE ACCORDING TO THESE RULES. 



TERMS: Price of Rules, with Instruction, $20.00. 

FEES mUST BE PAID IN ADVANCE. 



ANY ONE INFRINGING ON THESE RULES, WILL BE PROSECUTED TO THE 
FULL EXTEND OF THE LAW 



MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



Library of Conjjr««» 
, IWU COPttO Ri C t l MC D 

DEC 24 1900 

. Copyright entry 
JYo-/. 2-3, t^oo 

^JMJfr COPY 

0«<l<t»nid to 

ORDER DIVISION 



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MRS. A J. WUERFEL'S 

Tailor's Rules, 

Copyright, i888. by Mrs A. J Wuerfel. 



MRS A J. WUEKFEL'S 

Tailor's Rules and IJiagkams, 

Copyright, 1889, by Mrs. A. J, Wuerfel. 



MRS. A. J. 'WUERFEL'S 

Tailor's Rules and Diagrams, 

Copyright, 1900, by Mrs. A. | Wuerfel 



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SWAIN A TATE CO.. PRINTERS, MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



RULES OF INSTRUMENTS. 

The square is provided with two blades, blade B and blade C, the (jiiter 
edge of blade B being provided with an inch scale D, liaving two rovvs of numer- 
als, one of which runs from i to iS and the other from 19 to 3(3 inches, thus 
completing the yard-measure. Line E on blade B is a guide for tiie front shoul- 
der. The two cross-lines F and F on the blade B represent the guitle for the 
front bust-measure. The first line F at 3jj inches is for measuring a child's 
bust, the line F at 4 inches is for measuring a lad3''s liust. 

The inner edge of blade B is provided with the scale G running from i to 9 
inches and this scale is intended for measuring the length of the shoulder On 
the inner edge of blade C is formed a scale H with the numerals from i to 12 
and this scale H corresponds with scale G and is intended for measuring the 
height of the shoulder. 

The outer part of blade C is provided with three scale.;, I. J and K, which 
form the combined front neck scale. 1 he scale I with the numerals lu to iS is 
for measuring the width of neck, and corresponds with the scale J marked with 
the numerals i to 6, and is intended as the measuring-scale for representing 
different widths of front neck. 

The scale J also corresponds with the scale K having the numerals 9 to 18, 
subdivision, which represents eighteen inches for different sizes of front neck. 
The figures i to i 2 on the outer edge of scale 1\ indicate the sizes of the neck, 
and correspond with the shoulder-scale H for measuring the height of shoulder. 

Figure 2 is a curved blade for marking the back of the garment and curved 
lines on the outer edge of L is formed. The scale M is for measurin j; and shap- 
ing the back of the arms-eye. The numerals 11 to 16 on this scale M indicate 
different sizes of bust, the numerals i to 4 of the same scale are for splicing 
round back. The part Q of scale M represents different arm-sizes. The letters 
I and C stand for children, the letter M for misses, and the letter L for ladies. 

The lines N across the curved blade are marked with numerals 12 to iS and 
are guide-lines for the back-draft. The numerals 9 to iiS represent different 
sizes of neck and width of back. The curved inner edge O of tlie curved blade, 
is provided with an inch-scale R, having a subdivision and said scale is used for 
measuring the curved back and side-form. 

RULES FOR BUST. 

How to connect the different measures of bust with the intended bust-scale 
M on curved blade for a small arms-eye. 

For measure of bust 7 to 8 inches take from figure 11 to the letter I on 
curved blade. 

For 9 to 10 inches bust take hgure i i to letter C. 

For II to 12 inches bust take figure ii to letter ^^. 

For 13 to 14 inches bust take figure 11 to letter L. 

For 15 to 16 inches bust take figure 12 to letter L. 



MEASURES FOR WAIST. 

Pin a canvas belt around the waist, have the edge of belt to touch the hip; 
do not have the belt to a point front or back, have it direct around the waist. 

I St. Length of front waist, measure from the neck down to lower edge of 
belt, mark the length. For slant of waist add from a 'j to i inch. 

2nd. Size of neck, measure around the lower part of bare neck. 

3rd. Length of shoulder, measure from the neck to shoulder, slant the 
measure back of shoulder. 

4th. Width of chest, place the tape i inch below the neck at the center of 
chest, measure to the arms-eye. 

5th. Width of back, measure from the center of back to the curve of back 
arms-eye, place the point of tape at the curve of arms-eye, continue to the cen- 
ter of front bust. This divides the back from the bust. 

6th. Length of side, place the point of tape to the curve of back arms- 
eye, measure to the lower edge of belt, add for slant. 

7th. Under arm length, take this measure the exact length, measure from 
under-arm to lower edge of belt. 

8tli. Height of darts, measure from the lower edge of belt up to bust. 

gth. Length of back, measure from the neck to lower edge of belt, allow 
for slant. 

loth. Width of waist, take the measure around the waist tight. 

nth. Width of hip, take the measure around the hip loose. 



The waist and hip measure divide according to the figures in division table. 

Should there be 'j inches in the measure, add it to the front waist and hip. 

The figures from 20 to 61 represent the entire measure, the divided fig- 
ures under " Front " are for the use of front waist and hip. The divided figures 
under " Back " ar • for use of back waist and hip. 



DIVISION TABLE. 



20. 
21 . 
22. 
23- 
24- 

25- 

26- 
27- 

2S. 
29. 

SC- 
32. 
ii 



Front 
■■ 7 

• 7}i 

■ 7H 
. 8 

• ^.'- 

■ 9 

■ 9}- 
. 10 

■ lo'i: 



10 



1/ 



10-*^ 
1 1 

1 1 ! 2 



aclc. 




3 


34 


3 


35 


3J4 


3b 


3^2 


37 


3'-' 


3« 


3H 


39 


4 


40 


4 


41 


4 


42 


4, '4 


43 


4/iJ 


44 


4''4 


45 


5 


46 


5 


47 



l^roiit. 

I I 34 



Back. 



= /4 



I2?4 
13 

,14 

I4X 
14^. 

'4^4 

15 

I5H- 
16 . 



5X 


48 


5}( 


49 


bV^ 


50 


5% 


51 


6 


52 


6 


53 


6 


54 


6 '4 


55 


(^y^ 


56 


6% 


57 


7 


58 


7 


59 


7 '4 


60 


7>^ 


61 



Front. 
. l6>^ . 
.lb%. 

•I7>2- 

.18 . 

.18/4 . 

.l8>2. 

.19 . 
■ 19/4 ■ 

■i9>^- 
.19^. 

• 20K - 

• 20}b . 
.21 



iYa 
iVa 

8 
8 

8^ 
8>4 

8>4 

8M 
9 

934 
9^4 

9>^ 
9^ 



DIAGRAM FIG. i ON PLATE No. i 

Is a full sizetl draft of front neck for ladius. By placing the rule on the 
draft it aids the pupil in renieniberiuf; the dilferent motions of the neck. 

The front of the neck is formed l)\' different motions of the sijuare to repre- 
sent an angle (as shown by the lines mark '• height" and "width") before the 
neck can be shaped. Each different size of neck is formed and sliaped in the 
same manner. 

The si:ale I which is formed near the point on the inner edge of blade C is 
the measuring scale for width of neck, the said scale 1 is usetl to measuie a cer- 
tain height of neck before the width is measured. 

Place the square with the blade B towards you, draw a line, then mark at 
incli 3 at edge of blade B the guiiie stroke for neck. 

For measure of neck 14 inches place the point of blade C on the stroke of 
neck, have the edge of blade C on the guide line, mark at figure 14 of scale I the 
stroke for height, turn the blade B from yon, place the point of blade C on the 
stroke for height with the scale I from you, mark at figure 14 of scale I the exact 
width of neck 14 inches, then draw a line to form an angle. 

At the original stroke of neck mark a '_■ inch in, mark a '4 inch in at the 
width of neck for fullness of chest. 

For size of neck place the figure 3 of scale I on the latter stroke of neck, 
have the edge of scale K even with the width of neck. For size of neck 14 inches 
mark at the edge of scale K, for the opposite subdivision inch 14, draw a line for 
shape of neck from subdivision inch 14 of scale K to figure 3 of scale J. 

For guide of the shoulder place the angle of square on the guide-stroke of 
neck, have the blade C even with the original guide line, draw a guide line at 
the edge of blade B from inch g to inch 11. 

To shape the shoulder place the inch 1 of shoulder scale G even with the 
size of neck, place tlie figure 10 of shoulder scale H on the guide-line E, mark 
tlie lengtli of shoulder; then draw a line.' 

For width of chest place the blade C on the original front-guide with inch 
I on the original guide-stroke of neck, mark tlie width of chest b\ the edge of 
blade B. 

For a very full bust, mark a 'j inch in at the side of neck, mark -'4 of an 
inch in at the original guide-stroke of neck, to give sufticient fullness 

For a lady with a very flat bust make very little change at the neck as there 
is not much fullness rei]uiretl for chest. For a child make no change as the 
diagram shows. 

DIAGRAM FIG. 2 ON PLATE No. 1 

IS A FULL SIZED DRAFT OF NECK FOR C-I.D. 

For measure of neck 9 inches place the point of l)lade C on the stroke of 
neck, liave the edge of blade C on the guide line, mark at figure 10 of scale I 
the stroke for height, turn the blade B from you, place the point of blade C on 
the stroke for height, with the scale I from you, mark at figure 10 of scale I the 
exact widtli of neck. 

For size of neck place the figure i of scale J on the original stroke of neck, 
have the edge of scale K even with the width of neck. F"or size of neck 9 inches 
mark at edge of scale K for opposite subdivision-inch 9, draw a fine for shape 
of neck from suljdivision-inch g of scale K to figure i of scale J. 

Teach the plain waist iirst to the pupil as it is quickly learned. 

5 



DIAGRAM FIGS, i AND 2 OF PLATE NO. 2 

Shows a diminutive draft of ladies' front waist with bias dart. 

Allow for hem, place the square 2 inches from the edg;e of paper, draw a 
line along the edge of blade B for original front-guide, mark at inch 3 at edge of 
blade B the guide-stroke for neck, place the blade B to your left with the point 
of blade C on the guide-stroke of neck, have the edge of blade C on the original 
guide-line, mark at figure 13 of scale I, place the point of blade C on the latter stroke 
with the scale I from you, mark at figure 13 of scale I the exact width of neck, 
mark a 'i inch in at the guide stroke of neck, mark a }( inch in at the width of 
neck, place the figure 3 of scale J on the latter stroke of neck, have the edge of 
scale K even with the width of neck. For size of neck 13 inches, mark at figure 7 
of scale K, draw a line for shape of neck. 

For guide of shoulder place tlie angle of square on the guide-stroke of neck, 
have the blade C even with the original guide-line, draw a guide-line at blade 
B from inch g to inch 1 1, place the inch i of shoulder scale G even with the size 
of neck, place figure 7 of shoulder-scale H on the guide-line for shoulder, mark 
the length of slioulder, then draw a line. 

For guide of bust and length of waist, place the angle of square on the 
stroke of neck, have the edge of blade B on original front-guide, mark at both 
edges of bust-guide F at inch 4, mark the length of front waist. To guide the 
width of waist, place the angle of square on length of waist, have the blade C on 
original front guide, then draw a line along the edge of blade B, then draw a 
lower line according to the allowance for slant of waist. 

For width of chest, place the square up to the neck, have the blade C with 
the incli I on the stroke of neck, mark the width of chest by the edge of blade B. 

For width of Imst, place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust-guide 
with the blade C toward you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the 
width of bust for front part. To shape the arms-eye, draw a line from length 
o[ shoulder to width of chest and to width of bust. 

For under-arm length, place the angle of square on stroke of bust, have 
blade B to slant from you, then draw a guide-line for under-arm length. 

To locate the darts at waist, place the angle of square on the curve stroke 
of waist-length, with the edge of blade B on the upper waist-guide, divide the 
waist measure in unequal parts, add the width for the darts, mark the first dart 
1^-2 inches from the front-edge, add 2 inches for the first dart, take i inch waist 
from first to second dart, add ^j4 inches for second dart. 

For the height of darts place the blade B on the front edge, have the inch 
of the intended height on the stroke of waist with the blade C across the bust, 
locate the top of darts by the edge of blade C, if the first dart is marked at inch 
3, the second dart mark at inch 6, raise the second dart a ):( inch or more. 

To shape the darts, take curved blade, place the point of edge L on the 
first stroke of lower waist-guide, draw a line to the height of dart stroke, for the 
opposite side of the dart turn the blade blank up and draw a line, shape the sec- 
ond dart in the same manner, measure the front line of second dart from the top 
to waist, if this be 7i_^ inches, measure the bias line of the same dart yji inches, 
from this latter stroke guide the waist line. 

Place the angle of square on the latter stroke of dart, slant the blade up to 
under-arm length, take the width for waist and draw a line, then draw a curved 
line from bust to waist, for the hip, draw a line below the waist-line. 

For the side jiart, place the square with the edge of blade C on the waist- 
guide, have the blade B to your left, draw a line for guide of side, the length of 
side mark at blade B the guide-stroke also for bust, for width of bust, place the 



angle of square on the side guide-stroke of bust, mark the remaining width of 
bust b}' the edge of blade B, draw a line, curve the side from bust to waist guide, 
place the angle of square on the stroke of side, with blade C on the waist-guide, 
take the remaining subdivision inches for width of waist. 

Place the angle of s(]uare on the guide and width of waist, have the edge of 
blade B even witli the stroke {or bust, mark the inider arm length at blade B. 
draw a line to waist, slant the side of waist to the lower waist-guide. The hip 
take in length according to fashion. 

In defining the two lines running across the waist, the upper line is for the 
direct waist line and indicates the lower edge of belt, while the lower line is 
purposely for the slant of waist according to the allowance of measure. 

DIAGRAM FIG. 3 OF PLATE No. 2 

SHOWS HOW TO DRAW 2 UNDER-ARM PARTS FOR A STOUT LADY. 

Bear in mind that the measures in division table are not always satisfactory, 
for example, for waist measure 28 inches, in order to draw the back narrow at 
waist, take the inches of waist not desired for the back and add it to the under- 
arm parts, if this should not make it wide enough, take from the front waist- 
measure to make it wide enough to make 2 parts and splice it as the diagram 
shows. When the present instructions an: used the 2 nuder-arm parts take the 
place of the i under-arm part. 

RULES FOR BIAS DARTS. 

The bias cutting is managed by the side line of second dart, this is why it 
is called the bias dart line. The first dart should always be cut straight, take 
from I)- to 2 inches, take no more in width of the first dart. 

For a slender form take 3'2 inches in the bias dart, for a very large bust 
take 4 to 5 inches in the bias dart, mark the bias-line in length from the top to 
the waist-line with first line of same dart. 

Place the darts according to the witlth of chest, have the fullness of the 
darts to slant up to the bust, it the second dart slants up to the arm's-eye it will 
spoil the fit of the garment. 

How to divide the bust for under-arm parts, if the chest is 6 inches in width 
there should be 2J2 inches more in the bust from front-edge to under-arm. For 
bjj to 7 inches chest take 9 inches for bust, take the remainder ot the bust meas- 
ure in the underarm part or parts. If the bust and waist measure are wide 
enough make two under-arm parts. 

DIAGRAM FIG. i OF PLATE No. 3 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT OF BACK FOR LADIES. 
For back place the square 1)4 inch from the edge of paper, have the blade 
C to your left, draw a line for waist guide b\- the edge of blade C, mark at the 
angle of blade B the guide stroke of waist, mark the length for back to your 
right, this mark is also the guide for neck, draw a line for center-line of back. 
Take curved blade for size of neck 13 inches, place the blade with the second 
line N on center-line of back, have figure 13 even with the guide-stroke of neck, 
for the entire size of neck and guide of shoulder mark at figure g on the same 
edge of the blade. To continue the shoidder-guide mark at the opposite edge 
of blade as the line N shows. For length of shoulder place the angle of square 
on the stroke of neck, have the blade B also on the stroke of shoulder-guide, 
draw a line for length of shoulder. 



For width of waist plnce the square on the waist-guide, mark the subdivi- 
sion-inches for waist and guide of side, for length of side place the angle of 
square on the side of waist, have the blade B to vour right to slant slighth' from 
you, mark the length of side. 

For width of back place the angle of square on the center-line of back, have 
the blade B over to the length of side, connect the length of side with the width 
of back, to shape the arms-e)'e place the curved blade with arms-size M on 
shoulder length, have the figure ii of bust scale to connect with the width of 
back and side length, draw a line for arm's-eye, to shape the side, place the 
curved blade with the point of edge L on the width of back, have the edge L 
also on width of waist, draw a line for side. 

For hip have the inch 6 of blade B on center-line and waist-guide, have the 
blade to slant out, continue the center-line down, for width of hip place the 
blade C 4 inches below the waist-guide, have the angle on the center-line, mark 
the width of hip, place the blade B to the side, ancj continue the side line down. 

To splice the back for a coat back, take the inner edge of curved blade, 
place the point at the arms-eye, have the inner edge of blade also on the waist- 
line about I inch from the center-line of back, then draw a line from arms-eye 
to waist, below the waist draw the lines as the diagram shows for fullness of hip. 

If the back is to be spliced with a straight line from waist to shoulder, take 
the square. -* 

If a waist wrinkles scross the back below the neck, the shoulders of the 
back are too tapering, draw a square shoulder as tlie upper line of diagram shows. 

Should the back be too low at the back of neck it shows that the shoulders 
are not tapering enough. 

The dotted line which slants outward from the shoulder to waist shows how 
to draft the back for blouse waist, by adding from i to 2 inches to the width of 
back, and 2 to 3 inches to the waist-measure. 



To cut the back for princess dress, the back has to be spliced either from 
the arms-eye to waist or from the shoulder down to waist, this makes a center- 
back and a side-back. 

To cut the skirt part of the center-back, gore the center-edge, cut the side- 
edge of the same pattern straight. 

To cut the skirt part of side-back, gore the edge facing to the back, cut the 
edge facing to the front straight. 

RULES FOR SLEEVE. 

For height of cap of the different sized upper sleeves, for a sleeve 6 inches 
in width, take 2^2 inches up for cap, for 7 inches in width take 2}^^ inches for 
cap, for 8 inches in width take 3 inches for cap. To each inch more in width 
add a '4 inch to the height of cap. 

For slanting the wrist of lower sleeve, the inch i on the angle of blade B is 
divided into eighths for this purpose. For 2 inches in width of wrist take four 
eighths for a slant, to each "2 inch more in width take one-eighth more for slant. 
For slant of the wrist place the angle of square on the inner stroke of upper 
wrist, have the edge of blade B even with the stroke for bent of lower sleeve. 

8 



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MEASURES FOR SLEEVE. 

For the outer length of sleeve have the arm bent, measure from the wrist 
to elbow, jiiark the length, continue to the outer curve of arms-eye and meet 
with side length of back. 

For the inner-length of sleeve hold the arm straight, measure from the inner 
curve of arms-eye to wrist. 

For width of sleeve, measure around the top of the arm, have the measure 
not too tight 

For width of elbow, have the arm bent, take the measure around the elbow; 
have the measure not too tight. 

For width of wrist, measure around the palm of the hand quite tight for a 
tight sleeve, have the measure loose for a loose sleeve. 



The top, elbow and hand measures of sleeve should be divided according to 
the figures in division tables. 

Should there be >i inch in the measure of the sleeve add it to the upper 
part of sleeve. 

MEASURES FOR TOP OF SLEEVE. 

Division for Entire Division for 

Upper Sleeve. Me.asure. Lower Sleeve. 

(y]-2 9 2', 

■j^A lo 2>1j 

8 n 3 

81^ 12 VA 

gji 13 3>2 



10 14 



15 ■•■ ■ -^H 



ii>i 16 4>^ 

12}^ 17 + '+ 

13 '8 5 



1/ 



i^ii 19 5/4 

141.. 20 5/4 



MEASURES FOR THE ELBOW. 

Division for Entire Division for 

Upper Sleeve. Measure. Lower Sleeve. 

5H 8 ^^ 

6 9 3 

6% 10 3K 

714 II 3^ 

8 12 4 



8^4 -■3 434 

9>^ '4 4J4 

10 15 5 

10^ 16 sK 

17 



MEASURES FOR THE HAND. 

Division for Eniirk Division for 
Upper Si.FFVF. ; MiiAMkF. Lower Slkev.-.. 
4 6 2 

aYa 7 ^-yi 

5% S 2>4 

6 9 3 

(>yi 10 2,'A 

DIAGRAM FIG. 2 OF PLATE No. 3 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT OF S'-EEVE FOR LADIES. 

Give attention to the riyiit bend of sleeve, draw a straight line for original 
guide, have the guide towards you. Place the square on the line have the angle 
to your left, have 3 to 4 inches space for slant of wrist. 

For inner length of upper sleeve make three strokes on the original line by 
the edge of blade B. The lower stroke mark at the angle for the inner guide- 
stroke of wrist. The center- stroke mark at half the length of sleeve measure to 
guide the bend of sleeve. The upper stroke mark at the entire length. 

Place the angle of square on the center-stroke, mark 4 inches in for bend of 
sleeve. Place the angle of square on the upper-stroke, mark 4 inches in for 
shape of top. Then place the angle of square on the stroke of wrist, have the 
edge of blade B on the bend-stroke, then draw a line from wrist to the stroke of 
bend. Take the curved blade, place the point of edge L 2 inches below the 
bend stroke of sleeve, have the edge L also on the upper stroke, draw a line by 
edge L to complete the inner length. 

For width of wrist place the angle of scjuare on the inner-stroke of wrist, 
have the blade B even with the line of sleeve, mark the width of wrist at blade 
C, draw a line from inner to outer stroke of wrist. 

For width ot ell)ow place the angle of square on the bend of sleeve-line, 
mark the width at blade B. 

For width of sleeve at top, place the angle of square on the inner-length of 
sleeve, mark the width at blade B. 

F"or the elbow-length of sleeve, place the angle of square on the outer-width 
of wrist, have the width of elbow to connect with the length of elbow, draw a 
line from wrist to elbow, allow i inch for fullness at elbow, continue the line to 
the top width of sleeve. To get the exact length, take a tape-measure, measure 
the inner-length from wrist to top, measure the outer-length from wrist to elbow, 
continue to the top. 

Place the square across the top of sleeve from the inner to the outer-length, 
draw a short line in the center of sleeve, from the latter line take 3'j inches up 
for cap, draw a round line for cap. 

LOWER SLEEVE. 

Mark the lower sleeve on the same pattern as with upper sleeve, place the 
angle of square on the inner-stroke of wrist, with the blade B 2 inches in from 
the bend of upper sleeve, draw a line from the wrist to the bend of lower sleeve. 

Place the angle of square on the inner-length at top of sleeve, mark 3 inches 
in from the sleeve-line, take the curved blade, place the point of edge L 2 inches 
below the bend-stroke, have the edge L also on the upper-stroke for lower sleeve, 
draw a line to complete the length. 

tS 



For width ol wrist place the angle of square on the inner stroke of wrist, 
for 2 '.. inches width take five-eighths up for slant, make a mark, move the angle 
on the stroke for slant, liave the edge of blade B on the bend of lower sleeve, 
have the blade C with the intended width of lower wrist on the line of upper 
wrist, then draw a line for lower wrist. 

For width of elbow, place the angle of square on the bend of sleeve, mark 
the width at blade B. 

For width of sleeve at top, place the angle of square on the length of sleeve, 
mark the width at blade B. 

Place the angle of square at the width of wrist, have the width of elbow to 
connect with the elbow-length, draw a line from wrist to elbow, continue the 
line to the top of sleeve. 

To get the exact length take a tape-measure and measure the inner and 
outer length, draw a curved line at top. 



To draft a sleeve for a miss do not curve the sleeve as much as for a lady, 
the rules in drafting the sleeve are the same as for lady's sleeve. 



Alterations must be made on the outer seam for tightening or loosening the 
sleeve, also for a flowing or bell sleeve make allowance on the lower sleeve from 
elbow to wrist. 

MEASURES FOR PRINCESS DRESS OR WRAPPER, 

For front, measure from neck to waist, continue to the floor. 

For side, measure from side of arm's-eye to waist, continue back of hip to 
the floor. 

For under-arm, measure from under-arm to waist, continue over the hip 
and to the floor. 

For back, measure from back of neck to waist, continue to the floor. 

If a train is desired take measures according to the desired length. 

DIAGRAM FIG, i OF PLATE No. 4 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR FRONT OF PRINCESS DRESS OR WRAPPER. 

Follow the instruction of fig. i of plate No. i for the guide of front-neck, 
shoulder and chest, allow at shoulder and chest for shoulder dart. Place the 
angle of square on the stroke of neck, have the edge of blade B on original guide, 
mark at both edges of bust-guide F, at inch 4 mark the length of front waist, 
place the angle of square on length of front waist, have blade C on original front- 
guide, for waist. guide draw a line along the edge of blade B. 

Place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust-guide, with blade C 
towards you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the width of bust for 
front part to shape the arms-eye, draw a line from length of shoulder to width 
of chest and to width of bust. 

Mark a '_• inch in at waist length for curve of waist, draw a line for front- 
edge from waist up to bust, to locate the darts at waist place the angle of square 
on the length of waist, with the edge of blade B on the waist-guide, mark the 
first dart 2 inches from the front edge, add i ■_. inch for first dart, take i inch 
waist from first to second dart, add 1)2 inch for second dart. 

19 



For the height of darts phice the blade B on the front etige, have the inch 
of tlie intended height on the stroke of waist, with the blade C across the bust, 
locate the top of darts by the edge of blade C, the first dart mark at inch 2l4, 
the second dart mark at inch 5, raise the second dart a J4 inch. 

To shape the darts take curved lilade, place the point of edge L on the first 
stroke of dart at lower waist-guide, draw a line to the lieight of dart stroke, for 
the opposite side of the dart, turn the blade blank up, shape the second dart in 
the same manner below the waist, shape the darts straight, draw the lines to a 
slope. 

After the darts are shaped divide the remaining inches of waist in two parts, 
place the blade B on waist guide, take the one part of the inches from second 
dart to the hip-form, add 2 inches for hip-form, take the second part of theinches 
from the hip-form to the side, make a mark, add i inch for tfie guide-stroke of 
side, place the sijuare with blade C on the waist-guide, also on the guide-stroke 
of side, have the blade B to your left, draw a line for guide of side, for length of 
side mark the intended length at blade B the guide-stroke for bust, place the 
angle of sijuare on the guide-stroke of bust, mark the remaining width of bust, 
curve the side from bust to waist-guide. 

For the under-arm length, place the blade B on the inner-stroke of waist at 
second hip-form stroke, draw a line from waist to the bust for second hip-forrn 
line, draw a curved line at bust for arms-eye, draw the first liip-form line from 
bust to waist, locate two small darts on the line to point towards the front, have 
the upper dart i 'i inch below the arms-eye. have the darts deep enough to have 
the line conform in length with the second hip-form line, slope the two lines to 
a point 3 to 4 inches below the waist line. For size of hip place the blade B 4 
inches below the waist line from front to side, add the width for the darts and 
the hip-form to the hip measure, make a stroke and draw a round line from waist 
line down to hip. The darts should be placed to slant to the side. 

Example: For a large bust and small waist add more space in the dart at 
shoulder for fullness of bust, for large hip add more space in tiie hip-form at 
waist for fullness of hips, if a dress is too tight over the hips it shows that there 
is not space enough in the hip-form at waist to give the desired fullness. 

For princess dress or wrapper there should be no darts placed in the 
dress goods, the dress goods should always be designed in some pretty way so 
as to avoid tlie darts. This should make no difference in regard to tlie lining, 
as it is always best to have a good fitting lining with darts. 

The darts for princess dress should not be taken too deep as it gives too 
much fullness in the skirt part. 

This is the object of having the shoulder dart for the purpose of having 
sufScient fullness for the bust. 

Reference is made to the hip-form of princess dress, if more seams are de- 
sired in the skirt part, splice the pattern from the hip-form down, this makes a 
front and side part, cut the side-edge of the front part gore enough to give the 
desired fullness, cut the indicating edge of the side part quite straight, gore the 
side part on the side edge facing to the back. 

DIAGRAM FIG. i OF PLATE No. 5 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR A PLAIN WAIST. 

Follow the instructions of fig. i for the guide of front neck, shoulder and 
chest. 

For guide of bust and length of waist, place the augleof square on tlie stroke 



of neck, have the edge of blade B on original front-guide, mark at both edges 
of bust-guide F at inch 4, mark the length of front waist. To guide the width 
of waist place the angle of square on length of waist, have the blade C on origi- 
nal fiont-guide, then draw a line along the edge of blade B, then draw a lower 
line according to the allowance for slant of waist. 

Place the angle of square on the two strokes of bust guide, with the blade 
C towards you, draw a line along the edge of blade B, mark the entire width of 
bust. 

Mark at '_• inch in at waist-length for curve, draw a line for front-edge from 
waist up to bust, to locate the darts, place the angle of square on the curve- 
stroke of waist with the edge of blade B on the waist-line, divide the waist- 
measure in unequal parts, add the width for the darts, mark the first dart 2 
inches from the edge, add i y> inch for first dart, take i inch waist from first to 
second dart, add 2j_. inches for second dart. 

For the height of darts place the blade B on the front-edge, have the inch 
of the intended height on the stroke of waist with blade C across the bust, locate 
the top of darts by the edge of blade C, the first dart mark at inch 3, the second 
dart mark at inch 6, raise the second dart a. jj inch. 

To shape the darts take curved blade, place the point of edge L on the first 
stroke of lower waist-guide, draw a line to the height of dart-stroke, for the op- 
posite side of the dart, turn the blade blank up and draw a line, shape the sec- 
ond dart in the same manner. 

After the darts are shaped, count the inches of waist-measure which are 
placed in with the darts, place the angle of square on the front stroke of waist 
line, measure 2 inches waist from front edge to first dart, i inch from first to 
second dart, which makes 3 inches waist, place the edge of blade B witli the 
inch 3 on the second line of the second dart, then take the remainder of the 
width of front waist, make a mark. 

For length of side place the angle of square on the latter stroke of waist 
with blade B on the stroke of bust, mark the length of side at blade B, for under- 
arm length place the square in about the center of the waist, measure from waist 
up to bust, to shape the arms-eye draw a line from length of shoulder to widtli 
of chest, also to the exact under-arm and side-length. 

Slant the waist below the waist-line according to the allowance of the meas- 
ure, front and side, lay a small plait in the curve of the arms-eye of the pattern. 



For a misses waist follow the preceeding instructions, for a miss 10 to 12 
years take i dart, for a miss 13 to 14 years take 2 darts, i inch in each. 



DIAGRAM FIGS, 2 AND 3 OF PLATE No 5 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIV£ DRAFT OF FRONT AND BACK FOR CHILD'S WAIST. 

Take the measures of waist not too tight, take no dart, draft a plain front, 
draft the back straight. 

DIAGRAM FIG. 4 OF PLATE No, 5 

SHOWS A DIMINUTIVE DRAFT FOR CHILD'S SLEEVE. 
Curve the sleeve slightly, as it should be quite straight. 

21 



MEASURES FOR SKIRT. 

For length of skirt, measure from the front of waist hue to the floor. 

For side, measure from the side of waist over the hip to the floor. 

For back, measure from the waist-line at back to the floor. 

For a very fleshy lady take two extra measures for length, one before the 
hip and one back of hip. 

For width of skirt, take the measure of the waist for waist-band. 

For width of hips, take the measure around the hips about 5 to 6 inches 
below the waist. 

For a miss, take the hip measure 4 to 5 inches below the waist. 

For a child take the hip measure 3 to 4 inches below the waist. 



It is impossible to give specific instruction for a skirt as the styles are con- 
tinually changing. Therefore the hip-measure should be divided as to the num- 
ber of gores required. To suit the prevailing fashions purchase patterns. 

It is necessary to have a correct skirt measure of the lady that the skirt is 
to be made for, as purchased patterns are not always correct. 

The right way to fit a skirt is to have the skirt-band of the correct measure, 
fit the skirt over the hips, fasten to the skirt-band, then arrange the lower part 
of skirt for length. 

RULES FOR CUTTING THE WAIST-LINING. 

Place the pattern on the lining in the like manner so as to agree with the 
outline of the diagrams, for the outlines of the diagrams show how the linings 
should be cut for a good fit. 

Place the front edge of pattern parallel with the selvage, allow about 2 
inches for hem. Place the under-arm part of the bias waist with the top of pat- 
tern pointing outward and the waist part of the same pattern pointing inward. 

For back have the center-line of back as straight as possible. 

Take the waist lining double fold, have the selvage towards you, cut the 
fronts out first, pin the pattern on the lining to keep it in place, then trace all 
the lines on the pattern, in cutting the lining allow for seams, baste the linings 
together on the traced lines. 

The right way to put a waist together is to join the side-form to the back 
by keeping the back towards you, put the direct waist-lines together, continue 
to the arms-eye, then join the two backs by the center-seam. 

Turn and baste the hem of the front, then baste the darts, beginning at the 
top, join the under-arm part to the front by putting the direct waist lines to- 
gether, continue to the arms-eye. Then join the under-arm parts of fronts to 
the side-form of back by putting the direct waist-lines together, continue to the 
arms-eye. Put the shoulders together beginning at the neck, stretch the front 
of shoulder slightly, keep the back of shoulder towards you. Sew the hooks 
and eyes on the waist before it is fitted. 



For seamless waist connect the under-arm parts to the back, stitch the seams, 
then place the goods on the lining to the under-arm seam. 

To draft a square or round collar, also yoke for shirt waist, pin the shoulder 
line of back pattern on the shoulder line of front pattern. 

Then draw pencil lines for the desired shape of pattern, place the pattern 
on a sheet of paper and trace the lines, this gives a good fitting collar and yoke. 



RULES FOR CUTTING THE SLEEVE. 

The pattern should he placed on the linnig with the inner part of wrist on 
the selvage, while the inner part of the top of sleeve is from 4 to 5 inclies from 
the selvage so as cut the sleeve from wrist to elhow considerably on a l>ias, then 
trace all the lines. 

The lower sleeve should be cut still more on a bias than the upper sleeve. 

In cutting the dress goods for a tight sleeve the goods should be cut on a 
bias from the wrist to the elbow. .\t the top of sleeve allow for fullness accord- 
ing to the style. 

The right way to put the sleeve together is to begin at the inner wrist, have 
the upper sleeve towards you, then join the point of inner wrist of upper sleeve 
to the point of inner wrist of lower sleeve, continue on the two traced lines to 
the top. Then join the outer seam from wrist to elbow, place the fullness at the 
elbow of upper sleeve, continue to the top. In sewing the sleeve in the arms- 
eye have the inner seam of sleeve at the inner curve of arms-eye. 

For a leg-of-mutton sleeve with one seam join the lining from w^rist to elbow, 
place the lining on the goods, for fullness at tup allow according to st^le. 



The teacher is requested to furnish the ladv with her correct measure, as 
the lady can not take her own measure. 




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